Uptown Baja

Ensenada (Upper East Side)

RESTAURANTS • First Word

The Skinny: Mexico City and New York City converge inside the Vagabond Hotel, at chef Luis Herrera’s Brooklyn import Ensenada.

The Vibe: Funky, minimalist, cool: Ensenada fits neatly into the revived landmark MiMo hotel in Biscayne Boulevard’s historic district on the Upper East Side. A semicircle bar hugs a buzzy happy hour crowd, while the airy, blue and white dining room opens onto a tree-shaded terrace. There’s a homey, handmade, lived-in feeling to the space that extends to quirky, nautical-themed art adorning the walls. You’re just as likely to see the neighborhood’s creative types mingling at the bar as families enjoying a weekend dinner on the patio.

The Food: Herrera, who previously worked at Manhattan’s Cosme (from the team behind Mexico City’s Pujol), draws inspiration from CDMX’S fine dining institutions for dishes like his tostada de atun topped with salsa macha, al pastor-style swordfish, and tempura skate wing tacos. There are also ceviches and aguachiles, as well as more earthbound fare, like Oaxacan cheese quesadillas with poblano. And where corn shows up, so does delight: in tortillas made with locally sourced fresh masa, and in a carajillo affogato made with savory corn ice cream.

The Drinks: Cocktails are straightforward and agave-centric, like the perfectly tart, three-ingredient margarita and a well-rounded (mezcal) white Negroni with chamomile and orange. Sample the collection of rare and small-batch mezcals in a flight (starting at $36 per). Wines by the bottle or glass are nearly all organic and biodynamic.

The Verdict: Ensenada is an effortless neighborhood spot with warm, knowledgeable hospitality that hits the elusive right-place-right-time sweet spot, with a fun, laid-back take on creative Mexican. –Falyn Wood

→ Ensenada (Upper East Side) • 7301 Biscayne Blvd • Tue-Thu 530-10p, Fri 530-11p, Sat 11a-11p, Sun 11a-10p • Reserve.

Photo credit: Beth Rhodes.