The sun also rises

Sunny’s, Little River

RESTAURANTS • First Word

The Skinny: While downtown’s beloved Jaguar Sun may have set, a new day has dawned for restaurateur Will Thompson (see Thursday Routine, below) in Little River, where he’s found a permanent home for Sunny’s, his steakhouse that originally premiered as a pandemic pop-up. 

The Vibe: A tropical escape in ever-up-and-coming Little River, Sunny’s has outdoor seating around a massive banyan tree (a key holdover from the pop-up). The exteriors are thrown into smart relief inside, by a gorgeous dining room designed with a touch of Palm Beach regency and mid-century modernist flair. There’s also a lush outdoor bar and patio for pre-dinner mingling, as well as another bar inside the restaurant for drinks and walk-in diners.

The Drinks: Jaguar Sun fans will be happy to see the revival of the Green Ghoul, a smoky, mezcal-laden riff on the margarita, and the Wolf Whistle, their spin on a tequila espresso martini. There’s also a large-format clarified rum punch for four, as well as a take on the Hemingway-authored absinthe champagne cocktail, Death in the Afternoon. 

The Food: Sunny’s dry-aged steak program is on full display through their massive kitchen — a clear upgrade from their former makeshift outdoor kitchen digs. Start with Treasure Coast oysters or fluke crudo with strawberry and finger lime, before moving on to Parker House rolls and a perfectly dressed Caesar. Pastas include Jaguar Sun classics like a rigatoni with spicy pork sugo and agnolotti with blue crab and saffron. When it comes to the meats, take your pick from USDA prime hanger and Australian Wagyu. There’s also a rotisserie chicken and a pork collar with a Calabrian chili and anchovy rub. 

The Verdict: A mature older sister concept rather than a facsimile of Jaguar Sun. The pasta and martinis live on alongside Sunny’s steaks and sauces. –Amber Love Bond

→ Sunny’s (Little River) • 7357 NW Miami Ct • Wed-Sat 5-12p, Sun 4-10p • Reserve.