Sturdy reels

Catch (South of Fifth)

RESTAURANTS • First Word

The Skinny: A show-stopping new offering from the Catch Hospitality Group (Catch NY, LA, LV, Dallas, Aspen) and — unlike its predecessor on Collins Avenue, which opened over a decade ago and shuttered a year later — we think this one will (yes) Catch.

The Vibe: The restaurant makes a big first impression. Guests enter past a wine-filled trolley car into a striking dining room. The buildout is as beautiful as any in Miami, a marvel of mirrors, marble, dark wood and exposed ductwork. There’s also a spacious rooftop terrace with a retractable roof, which the owners promise to keep open as much as possible (unlike a certain local baseball team).

The Food: The menu covers a lot of ground and does it well. There are oysters and an array of fried starters, like crunchy rice cakes with tuna tartare and crispy shrimp with spicy mayo. Fish from Toyosu Market in Japan is served as sushi and sashimi and in a number of appetizers, like red snapper ceviche with pickled peach, pomegranate, and Amarillo sauce, and a truffle sashimi pizza. There are also two prime steak options to choose from — a 12-oz. NY strip and a 22-oz. bone-in ribeye — and Wagyu hot rock, a tableside preparation of Kobe, olive, or snow beef priced by the ounce. For dessert, warm ricotta donuts are delivered on a ferris wheel-esque contraption.

The Drink: Catch’s cocktails are equally as detailed and unusual. The Smoked Cadillac Martini sticks with La Familia Platino tequila over mezcal, adding fire-roasted poblanos and smoked sea salt for a whiff of campfire. There’s also a house “filthy” martini with bleu cheese olives and house-made brine, intense, and bound to become a martini-lovers’ cult classic. The wine list has some intriguing offerings as well, such as a Chateau Brane Cantenac 2nd growth from Margaux, and the Gaja Magari super Tuscan blend from Bolgheri.

The Verdict: It’s a lot to take in, but the food and drink live up to the decor. –Matt Meltzer

→ Catch (South of Fifth) • 200 South Pointe Dr • Mon-Wed 530-1130p, Thurs-Sat 530p-1a, Sun 1130a-330p and 530-11p • Reserve.