Sí señora

Sra. Martinez (Coral Gables)

RESTAURANTS • First Word

The Skinny: After a 12-year hiatus, Sra. Martinez is back.

The Michelle Bernstein restaurant that defined Miami dining in the early 2010s (and put the Design District on the map) reopened its doors in a new Coral Gables location. Version 2.0 revives her Spanish restaurant in the neighborhood where the superstar chef started her career at the humble yet mighty Redfish Grill.

The Vibe: The energy hits first: Cuban music spills onto Galiano Street and sculptural chandeliers crown a rosy dining room with mint green accents and Art Deco flourishes, from terrazzo floors to frescoed wall panels and pink lampshades inside the 4K-square-foot space. The bar team, matching in dapper pink tuxedo jackets, set the tone for this semi-formal yet energized affair inside a bustling room where intimate conversations are still possible.

The Food: Devotees of the original might miss Bernstein’s era-appropriate candy-like bacon-wrapped dates, but the new menu proves the chef hasn’t stopped innovating. A creative set of croquetas includes one with mushroom and mozzarella served with a blackberry-balsamic marmalade, as well as a “carbonara” with shaved cured egg yolk and Pecorino.

The whipped feta "Greek-ish" salad offers an ideal ratio of tomato, cucumber, and crispy pita croutons in pomegranate-spiked vinaigrette. For mains, oxtail paella emerges from the wood-fired oven with melting bone marrow. There’s even a playful homage to local chef Andy Gilbert, formerly of Seven Dials, whose recipe results in “the only fish ‘n chips you’ll ever need,” lightly battered and wonderfully crisp. The menu rounds out with a selection of steaks served with green peppercorn sauce and a Spanish chimichurri made with piquillos, Jerez vinegar, garlic, and parsley.

The Drink: The cocktail menu highlights playful risks on classics, like an aromatic Spanish gin and tonic made with Aperol and grapefruit bitters. While the Martini Service didn’t involve tableside preparation, it did involve a floral French twist on the classic made with St. Germain, olive brine, and one’s choice of gin or vodka. The 15-seat bar and adjacent lounge are set aside for walk-ins.

The Verdict: From the strong cocktail program to the modern menu and well-calibrated live music, Bernstein engineered an experience that feels both fresh and familiar. I overheard a diner who frequented the original Sra. Martinez put it perfectly to her friend: "It's different, but somehow exactly what I want it to be." –Olee Fowler

→ Sra. Martinez (Coral Gables) • 2325 Galiano St • Tue-Thur 5-11p, Fri-Sat 5p-12a, Sun 5-11p • Reserve.