Neighborhood club
A'Riva at Harbour Club (Sunset Harbour)
RESTAURANTS & CLUBS • First Person
I was curious (and skeptical) on first hearing of Harbour Club, a new private club open since October in Sunset Harbour. I’m a regular in the micro-neighborhood, and the club’s curvilinear two-story space at Bay Rd. and 18th St., while full of potential, has seen high turnover through the years. Could this hip, laidback locals neighborhood really sustain a private club?
The brainchild of James Julius (formerly of The Dorchester, London’s Annabel’s, and Miami’s ZZ’s Club), Harbour Club draws inspiration from the private clubs of his native London. It’s divided into three distinct spaces: the open-to-the-public Italian restaurant a’Riva, members-only cocktail bar Palm Room — both on the first floor — and Nikai, a “Japanese-forward” restaurant and lounge (also members-only) on the second floor. Club membership runs $2500 annually with a one-time $5000 initiation fee.
The interiors of a’Riva evoke a subtropical, British colonial club. There are pearlescent tile floors, low-slung dining chairs in sand and moss tones, banquettes upholstered in palm frond patterns, and softly lit architectural columns. The room is richly textured, with accordion-like plasterwork, leather-backed barstools, brushed brass, and potted plants.
On a recent Saturday night, our charming server guided us through chef Michael Esposito’s Italian-Riviera-inspired menu. We started with caviar service, presented elegantly on ice alongside chives, shallots, crème fraîche, tater tots, and blinis. But before that hit the table, a freshly baked round of warm, perfectly spongy focaccia and olive oil arrived.
Antipasti also impressed. Fried zucchini flowers with ricotta, mozzarella, and sundried tomatoes are richly battered and perfectly crisp. Beef tartare is prepared tableside with black truffle and parmesan foam. Hamachi crudo with grapes, mint, and pomegranate makes for a bright, fresh, wonderful start.
We skipped the tempting secondi and large format proteins for sharing — Wagyu tomahawk with chimichurri, dover sole alla Mugnaia, a selection of Milaneses — for a straightforward rigatoni pomodoro made with bright San Marzano tomatoes, and tagliolini with black truffle and brown butter, both sumptuous. We drank martinis and finished with a silky chocolate mousse.
On a Saturday night at the height of season, the room was about three-quarters full, so I was curious to see the vibe in the private club. The obliging host gave us a tour. Inside the Palm Room and upstairs at Nikai, revelers lurked in the glittery spaces where dark walnut finishes, velvet upholstery, and a deeper color palette make for a nice transition from dinner to nightlife.
The whole operation brings a new level of sophistication to Sunset Harbour. Let’s hope it sticks around. –Shayne Benowitz
→ A'Riva at Harbour Club (Sunset Harbour) • 1766 Bay Rd • Tue-Fri, 12-10p, Sat 11a-11p, Sun 11a-4p • Reserve.