Mexican pastiche

Bistro 8 (Little Havana)

RESTAURANTS • First Word

The Skinny: The team behind Hiden and The Taco Stand brings French-Mexican fusion to Little Havana with two-week-old Bistro 8, featuring a menu of shareable plates marrying Latin American ingredients with French techniques.

The Vibe: Behind an unassuming stripmall storefront on Calle Ocho lies a dining room that feels like a modern French bistro teleported straight out of Mexico City. Awash in pink and blue pastels with gold-leaf vaulted ceilings from which bubble-like light fixtures float, it’s full of playful touches like large format terrazzo tiled floors, blue pottery matching the walls, and caned-back dining chairs.

The Food: Chef Pancho Ibáñez cut his teeth at Mexico City's celebrated Pujol, which might explain why my husband and I found ourselves competing for the last drops of a French bistro-style mussel broth wafting with Mexican spice. The house-made tortillas arrive with the perfect chew, making ideal vehicles for anything that hits your table, especially the melting, rich pork belly al pastor that almost cuts like steak.

The Drink: The Mex-tlan is a striking black color courtesy of corn husk ash, an immediate conversation piece. End your night with their carajillo; I've had my share around town (and the world) and this ranks among the finest.

The Verdict: Between the warmth of the hospitality, the thoughtful design, and Ibáñez's unique, confident cooking, Bistro 8 is a welcome addition to Miami’s (somewhat spare) elevated Mexican dining scene. –Olee Fowler

→ Bistro 8 (Little Havana) • 2069 SW 8th St • Wed-Mon 530-10p • Reserve.