Mediterranean bazaar

Zaytinya (South Beach)

RESTAURANTS • First Person

When The Bazaar by José Andrés shuttered in March 2023 after more than a decade at SLS South Beach, Miami didn’t have to wait long for another restaurant from the beloved celebrity chef. Zaytinya promptly opened at the end of 2023, serving Mediterranean mezzes just a block south at The Ritz-Carlton South Beach. With the impending return of The Bazaar this fall at the soon-to-open Andaz Miami Beach (accepting reservations starting April 25 and where Andrés will oversee the entire food and beverage program), I recently checked in on Zaytinya.

I’ll admit, I’d previously dined at Zaytinya at The Ritz-Carlton Nomad in Manhattan and was deeply underwhelmed by the experience — too brightly lit, sterile design, hospitality off, food just okay. All I kept thinking was: we should be upstairs, at The Bazaar.

Still, I’ve long been a fan of Andrés, as well as the indoor-outdoor dining room by the pool at The Ritz-Carlton South Beach where the subtly sophisticated space had been undermined by a series of uninspired restaurants before Zaytinya arrived. I sat down curious to see if Andrés was bridging the gap.

The space is canopied by a wooden trellis with string lighting and lush plantings, and modern Spanish tile floors anchor baby blue cushioned benches, basket-woven chairs, and polished teak tables. We started out with a variety of mezzes and spreads: creamy hummus with plenty of garlic and tahini, pungent labneh sprinkled with za’atar, a halloumi pide flatbread, and jewel-like smoked beet salata with clementines, roasted pistachio, pomegranate, and feta. That perfectly cued up the family-style kebab platter with juicy lamb, chicken, kofte, and adana with garlic toum and pillowy pita — a beautifully orchestrated, delicious feast.

Zaytinya is a great opportunity to sample Greek and Turkish wines, like the Kir-Yianni Akakies brut rosé I started with, from Northern Greece. The cocktail menu also highlights spices, citrus, and spirits from the Mediterranean, like Greek gin and Mastiha, a Greek liqueur. Andrés knows his way around a margarita, so I went for his za’atar variety, a Mediterranean riff on his signature salt air margarita. It didn’t disappoint.

With Zaytinya in South Beach, I’m happy to report that both cuisine and service finally match the Ritz’s lovely atmosphere. Swing by for an elegant, relaxed Mediterranean snack or feast, and bide your time until The Bazaar is back on the beach. –Shayne Benowitz

→ Zaytinya (South Beach) • 1 Lincoln Rd • Sun-Thu 7a-10p, Fri-Sat 7a-11p • Reserve.