RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: From Major Food Group — the NYC-based dining kingpins responsible for bringing Carbone (and Dirty French Steakhouse and Contessa) to Miami — now comes Chateau ZZ’s, their first-ever Mexican fine dining concept. It opened in February in a historic manor on Brickell Avenue.
The Vibe: French maximalism, in a rainforest. Designer Ken Fulk somehow makes it work, blending animal print booths, tropical wallpaper, and potted banana plants with fine art and crown molding. The green sunroom (above) — connected to the darker-hued main dining room at the restaurant’s far end — feels like a secret tropical garden, filled with natural light and then, as the sun goes down, the glow from a glass-blown chandelier. (The second floor is reserved exclusively for members of the the onsite ZZ’s Club.)
The Food: As is de rigueur with Major Food Group restaurants, the flavors are big. For shellfish lovers, the michelada oysters are a must, offering a fresh and spicy take on the bivalve: perfectly briny, topped with a lime squeeze, and balanced with basil oil and a tajin rim. The squash blossom rellenos were an unexpected surprise: fried to a crisp and stuffed with cheese — the comfort food of fine dining. And green mole lamb chops topped with mint, cilantro, and green onions overdelivered on that big flavor promise.
The Drinks: Table stakes, sure, but Chateau ZZ’s does, in fact, make a good margarita, and the cocktail list includes nine variations. The Prickly Pear with lime and raspberry serves as a great accompaniment to the raw bar menu, though the Ginger gives health shot vibes. Those who like to browse will find over 1000 tequilas and mezcals on the list.
The Verdict: Fine-Mexican dining in a French-inspired chateau, the unexpected juxtaposition Miami never knew it needed. –Katelin Stecz
→ Chateau ZZ's (Brickell) • 1500 Brickell Ave • Mon-Sat 530-11p • Reserve.