RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: Peruvian husband-and-wife chefs Juan Manuel Umbert and Janice Buraschi’s Pasta, which opened last October, is a second location of their popular Lima restaurant. The Wynwood spot features an extended bar that doubles as a chef’s counter, where you can witness their handiwork preparing a smartly edited menu of housemade pastas.
The Vibe: Umbert and Buraschi are gracious hosts, happily explaining their process as they go. If you’re not up for the show at the bar, the restaurant has plenty of traditional table seating in the airy, wood-clad, 77-seat dining room. A playful, everyone’s-family energy buzzes throughout.
The Food & Drink: Pasta highlights include agnolotti di funghi with butter and 36-month-aged parm and pappardelle with 15-hour braised beef cheek. There’s also a list of a half-dozen starters, like razor clams with nduja and salsa verde, and stracciatella with sourdough (an ideal one-two punch). The wine list is mostly Italian and accessible.
The Verdict: A boisterous neighborhood restaurant, equal parts entertainment and family dinner. –Matt Meltzer
→ Pasta (Wynwood) • 124 NW 28th St • Wed-Thur 530-10p, Fri-Sat 530-1030p, Sun 5-10p • Reserve.